1/2 Ton or 3/4 Ton? Which is best for Overlanding? | Suburban
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- Опубликовано: 23 янв 2021
- In this video I go over the differences between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Suburbans. Hope this helps you decide which is right for you👍
1/2 Ton
Engine: 5.7 V8, 5.3 V8 and 6.0 V8
Towing Capacity: 8,100 lbs
Curb Weight: 5,200 lbs
Fuel Tank: 31-42 gallons
MPG: 13-15
Rear Differential: 10 Bolt
Transmission: 4L60E
3/4 Ton
Engine: 5.7 V8, 6.0 V8, 7.4 V8 and 8.1 V8
Towing Capacity: 10,000-12,000 lbs
Curb Weight: 5,800
Fuel Tank: 37.5-42 gallons
Mpg: Around 10
Rear Differential: 14 Bolt
Transmission: 4L80E
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I have been with my 2001 Suburban for 360,000 miles. One new fuel pump, one new transmission and two window regulators. Oh, and lots of new tires, batteries and love.
That's awesome!
I have a 2002 GMC Yukon xl 4x4 5.3 with 281517 miles on stock motor and transmission and still get 20 to 22 on the interstate. One thing I love about my suburban is the g80 locker reat axle.
@@cameroncassel994 do all them have given lockers.
@@privateparker5698 no the open rear is a 9 inch rear and the g80 is the 11 inch rear axle
@@cameroncassel994 what are you doing to get 20 Mph?
The 3/4 ton suburban with 4 wheel drive is a great vehicle for towing . It will ride a little stiffer but it will get you places you shouldn't have gone to lol. It's always more fun in a group. The 1/2 ton rig will go anywhere you really need to go and carry almost everything you need . They are both very heavy vehicles and if you get stuck you will be glad you are in a group.
Suburban with 250,000 miles still going strong. Suburban all day.
Awesome!
Wheeled our 04 8.1L Yukon XL 2500 all over the mountain passes of Ouray, Chicken Corners in Moab, and Anza Borrego with ZERO issues. It’s a beast. Sure the mpg sucks but it’s cheap, sturdy, reliable, and had zero issues. It peeved the overbuilt Jeep boys where I could take it. No sleeping on the ground, no pricey fixes, no RTT, at a fraction of the cost. It’s a winner in my eyes.
@golfshowjohn Hey John. What's your price? Ron
Not to mention, with the money you saved over buying a late model 4Runner/Taco/Jeep, that pays for a hell of a lot of fuel!
I have a late model 4Runner, and while I like it, you put a passenger, a couple dogs, and gear in it, and it gets small real quick. I'm thinking hard about getting one of these Suburbans.
@golfshowjohn please send me your info about the 8.1 suburban
I love my 1/2 ton Suburban... They are such beautiful trucks!
I have both a 1500 and 2500 Suburbans.
2000 1500 has a level kit, 3" body lift, 4.10 gears and 37" tires. It is the absolute best setup for off road travel. I consistently and comfortably run 200-300 mile days exploring Death Valley.
2011 2500 has 6.0 motor, 3.73 gears and 33" tires. It is amazing on the highway, tows a 10,000# trailer all day without hesitation and is absolutely worthless off road. Ride is as comfortable as a paint shaker. Parts are not designed for the weight, replace control arms and ball joints at least once a year. Same 200-300 mile Death Valley trip takes 2-3 days.
So if your overland dream consists of driving on pavement 2500 Suburban is better however if you plan on going off the beaten path 1500 is superior.
What brand do you recommend for control arms and ball joints
I do fine off-road on my GMT800 2500 6.0 Blackbear performance tuned. Its built to go offroad Cognito UCA leveling kit, 2" lift block in the rear, Fox shocks, Rareparts HD tie rods, Rareparts HD idler, pitman and idler bracket, redhead HD steering box on 33s on 4.10s. Feels great offroad and on lots more confident with all the HD drivetrain vs. a half ton. Goes lots of places I love this setup meets my needs. The G80 and the 4l60 Trans are the weak link on half ton burbs. I did do Sulastic shackles to smooth out my stiff ride it is noticeable less bounce more smooth. But it's still a 3/4 ton...hahaha
I have a 1/2 ton 5.3 2007 LTZ 4x4 and a 3/4 ton 8.1L 2001 LT 4x4 and both go anywhere I need off road with zero issues. If I had to sell one, I'd sell the 1/2 ton because I can tow anything AND go wherever.
let me help you out sir - 2000-2006 you have a normal half ton, and a Z71, the Z71 has an off road package with locker, 5.3 with 4l60e tranny in both, 8.5" rear gear and 7.5" front gear, the 2500 with a 6.0 has a 4L80e, a 9.5" 14b rear gear, a 9.25" front gear, this is rated for 10k towing, the 8.1 has a 4l85e transmission, a 10.5" 14b full floater rear axle, the same 9.25" front gear and has a towing capacity of 12,000 lbs - I consider this a one ton station wagon when you put a ford super 60 in the front, I have a couple of each
Thanks! Love the write up. I can't say everything in the videos. I'll lose people. Lol. Do you mind if I use this info in the description?
@@suboverland use it all, that is why I put it there for you brother. I love these machines and what you are doing
I’m a little late replying to your comment but are you recommending a 2500 for an Overlander? I’m looking at a couple options and found a 2500 in good shape with the 8.1. Did any 2500’s ever have the Allison?
@@johnd8592 subs never had the ally, but the 8.1 has a 4L85E and a full floater 14b rear axle where as the 6.0 has a 4L80E tranny and a 9.5" 14 bolt semi floater rear axle. I have a 2003 with 8.1 and 4.10 gears I picked up for 3k this is amazing really
@@patrickhickman8723 I am looking around for a 6.0 2500 now personally, i had a 1500 previously and it was totaled sadly.
Love my 00' 1/2 ton but all of us deep down want 3/4 ;)
Nice!
The 8.1 Suburbans have built a cult following and are selling for HUGE money.
Also if you are towing with the 1500 with 4L60E put a True cool 40K transmission cooler on it
I just picked up a 8.1 suburban Saturday and I love it, low miles it's like driving a Cadillac
Definitely going to look into that cooler! Thank you
Another great video, good info.
Good video, with helpful info. Subscribed based on this video and your intro to your business building the interiors and doing the suspensions.
I had considered the switch to the duramax at some point but with the increasing difference in fuel costs between the two I'm less inclined to go with the diesel when it's time to replace the original 8.1. My son in law has the diesel version (same generation) and the torque is really the only difference, when towing in the mountains the diesel is a plus but overall on 99% of roads we travel the 8.1 is more than adequate.
Good info thanks.
Very informative video!
enjoyed the video I have now watched many hours and look forward to new ones
You have any suggestions?
I learned so much from you since it would be almost impossible to get to Idaho from here to check out a vehicle!
Got a 2006 3/4 with the 8.1L. Love the comment on no sugar coating the fuel economy. I get 9.5 gpm all day long. Love mine.
So we went the 2500 route. We had a long history of Land Cruisers but with a family of 5 needed more space. Going for the overbuilt drivetrain philosophy the 2500 made sense. I think some major points to make between the 1500 and 2500 that weren’t mentioned are that the 1500 has a better ride with the coil springs. The 2500 has much better brakes and the front end is way beefier. The 1500 with the 4l60 is notorious for failing before 200,000 miles even when not used for towing while the 4l80 is one of the most durable transmissions made. For ours we added bilstiens, leveled the front and added onboard air. That was key because the ride and head toss off-road is bad in a stock 2500 and airing down made it tolerable on longer dirt tracts. I think these are way under appreciated vehicles and the drivetrains stand the test of time. Ours was 6.0 with 4.10s, and 33’s and we would see 15-17 on two lame highway all the time, towing, 9-10mpg. My time with 1500 Burbs I would see 17-18 in similar driving. That’s driving easy, a heavy foot the mileage drops off fast. For an overland platform I would take the 2500 every time just for sake of durability personally. We sold ours but I miss it and would get another, though would search out the 8.1 next time as it sounds like there really isn’t much mileage penalty going 8.1
Thanks for adding your detailed comment. I found it helpful and interesting.
Great video ...thanks.
I previously owned a 1996 4x4 3/4 ton Suburban. It was a 454 engine, camper hauling special. I got 12mpg. Loved this truck, I was sorry to see it go. You left out one of the most important features. Stronger breaks. My Son discovered that it was governed at 95 mph. That's a different story. God Bless.
It is probably good, suburbans start to get a little light at about 100mph.
*brakes
Spelling really isnt hard! Especially when you have spell check built in. C'mon people!
@@backyardbraaapn1017I'm not the one that wrote that but I just wonder have you ever thought that his phone that likes to do the spelling for us changed the spelling from brakes to breaks? My phone does it all the time! Besides how and why do you want to mess up a great video TRYING to be smart and if you look at your name title you need to practice what you preach! Quit being a Troll it has made you a miserable person! Go try to have a good day!
Great video, Grady. 👍
Thanks!
Awesome company! Thanks for loaning Tristan the suburban. Great vehicle!
Thanks!
Just picked up an 01 3/4 ton. 3rd row. Torque converter is failing but no biggie. New build. Going to be fun.
Great video thank you sir
Thanks!
My 2004 3/4 ton has the 6.0 and is a super clean California truck.
Love my 8.1 suburban
I own a 2008 2500 4WD with an LY6. Leveled the front with Bilsteins, keys and torsion bolts adjusments, put a 2 inch rear wheel spacer with 275LT 70 17 General ATX on American Racing wheels. Great neutral handling and with lower tire pressures its comfortable as the 1/2 ton yukon I had previously. Big advantage on the 5.3 is the torque which the older 8.1 surpasses but the 6.0 just keeps on pulling to 6000rpm and has better fuel economy. Its my wifes daily. Its great for our Canadian winters, Can tow a 10k lb camper with the kids and do some light off-roading 👌🏼
No mention of the 6.5 Turbo-diesel? If you spend a little on a few simple upgrades to get rid of their major (well known) flaws, that's a fantastic combo. I've got a 1997 K2500, with over 280k miles, and I'd drive it anywhere.
Oh, and I get high teens mpg if I can keep my foot off the throttle to hear that turbo whistle too often. With the Heath (or other I'm sure) upgrades, it's a beast.
I completely agree. Having previously owned K2500 6.5 Subs i recently picked up a 1999 K1500 6.5 Sub. Basically a K2500 with 3.42 full float rear end and the 4L80E. 21 mpg, rugged, reliable, 42 gal tank.
What is not to like?
The 4L80E is the main reason for the 2500, but big brakes and the full-float rear end with the option of the fully-encased G80 (which is robust, unlike the 10-bolt) also stack up. The increased payload is safety factor when loaded down.
Well said!
Yes an HD G80 👍
If you really don't need the extra power of the 2500 I would think the 1500 would be a good choice for someone who takes it for long trips away from home. I think it would be easier to work on and to find parts for if something broke down since the 1500 version is really common and shares a lot of parts with other trucks. You don't want to be stuck somewhere and to have to wait for parts to be shipped or something.
I like the 4L80e being a stronger unit But biggest problem with the 4L80e for us 4wd guys is the gearing. I’ve got a 98 K1500 with a 4L60e and a 14 bolt semi float rear. Will be upgrading to a LM7 5.3 and Nv4500 with the 32 spline and a 241c.
Got an 07 3/4 Lt fully loaded. Love the bigger engine and as you said. Its way more fun to drive. I have a friend who has an 09 1/2 ton and she said she likes the look of mine a ton more. One thing to add is that the 3/4 has roughly a 2 in taller frame and thus sits higher stock than a 1/2 ton. Other than that great video!
Thanks!
@@suboverland cool did not know it sits 2" taller!
I will be offering a straight axle conversion in about one year, this will be a ford super 60 and only for the 2500 2000-2006
I got an 00 2500 with the 6.0 love it! And I'm a Ford guy lol, crazy how GM didn't do a Duramax on the 3/4 tons to compete with the Excursion
I believe they did it was an option from the factory that's when they had the 8.1 as a gas alternative
I have a Tahoe that i built out of flipped over and installed the 6.0. Z71 however you can build a 2500 suburban you need to exchange the suspension.
Don’t forget the 2500 HDs in the GMT800s! Even more rare.
Both of my 8.1s have original cats and thrush “welded can” mufflers. I don’t remember the real name of them. I chose them because they have a deep sound accelerating and they quiet down at road speeds. The higher mileage one had a rattle in the cats for a while and it went away so I suspect that the elements cracked up and don’t exist now. I guess the point would be that it may only appear to have cats.
I wonder if you guys have ever thought about making and attaching a shower tent to the side of your rig so that your shower as it's rigged up could be used.
Also there is defiantly a difference between what some are calling a "rougher ride" and a stiffer ride. The 3/4 is definitely a stiffer ride. With way less body roll. It drives like a truck and gives you more control. It gets rid of the Boat feel.
That's a good way to put it. Thanks!
Probably the best way too put it.. ive had both a 99’ K1500 with the 5.7 & a 98’ K2500 Suburban with the 6.5 Turbodiesel i got too say in my opinion the K2500 pretty much one up’d the K1500 in every aspect
My truck rides stiff and my car rides rough even with softer suspension very good note.
I have a 17'enclosed trailer loaded down to about 6,000 lbs and I've owned a 2003 jeep GC 4.7ho, 2002 tahoe 1500 5.3 and a 2007 2500 duramax and pulling that trailer with a unibody jeep was a death wish and sank it down the ground. Tahoe feels very rear heavy but I feel somewhat safe pulling it. The 5.3 is a great engine I mean it's slow with the trailer but yet I can tell it has torque and adequate power. The Duramax I can barely tell it's behind me, plenty of power, rear end feels 100% stable....But with diesel 2x the price of gasoline I'm looking for a 2500 8.1...10mpg unleaded is like getting 20mpg diesel right now
How much stronger is the front end/4wd components than the 1500? And are there "beefier" options to add strength to the front? Such as tie rods, etc?
It was 42 gallon tanks for 90s
Main advantage of the 3/4 ton is the increased payload capacity. The Suburban 2500 payload is about 2800lbs vs the 1500 has about 1800lbs. This is important if carrying many passengers, cargo, rooftop tents, gas cans, etc plus tongue weight of a trailer. If only two passengers and no towing/light towing, the 1500 is perfect, smoother ride and increased mileage.
More importantly, the 2500 has much heavier duty brakes and suspension which help stop safer with the added capacity. The 6.0 engine and trans are also rugged. I have a 2006 2500 with the 6.0 4.10 trans. It still runs and looks like new.
Exactly! With passengers in second and third rows, and luggage in the back, you have little payload left for a camper or boat tongue weight in the 1500 Suburban.
The 2500 has higher payload and much stronger brakes with no fade while towing heavy loads. The 1500 allows you to take 7 passengers to the lake OR tow a 8,000 boat to the lake.
The 2500 allows you to do both at the same time.
I've got an oddball obs silverado z71 it was a government vehicle a fire chief truck. It's 99 but it's still gmt 400 it's a 1500hd. Basically it's a 6 lug 2500. Got the 14 bolt and the suspension of a 2500 but it is a 350 4l60e. Gonna eventually put a 4l80e in it it's a stout truck rides a little stiff but not too bad it's a little complicated getting some parts for it cause it's an oddball but love it.
Hey Josh if your still around ive got a 88 GMC Ext cab 6 lug 3/4 ton long bed. You was talking bout hard to get parts, oh let me tell you I like to flipped out trying to get the right parts when I first got it. I didn't know if i should call it half ton or what and a old Chevy Mechanix said when you go get parts tell them you have a K2500 and you'll get the right ones. Since he told me that I haven't got the wrong parts since but like you until you get figured out just what is this thing and can get crazy! I hope things are good with you and your family! Take care!
@@Tommy-rr7ez thanks I've figured that out.
I would say that you left out one other potential benefits of the 3/4 ton models - and that is they can be converted over to run a Duramax diesel. Putting a Duramax in it improves fuel economy - which with the big tank can give the truck a big improvement in range. Also the Duramax has more power & torque than the 8.1. The conversion does cost $$ though - if you can't do it yourself.
Hello from the great white north just became the owner of a 99 suburban with the 6.2 Detroit diesel its a1500 but has 2500 everything under neath 14 bolt 8 bolt lug. My main problem is the 4x4 iv gone through all the wiring and all parts are new but cant get it to work new switch as well and all fuses are good and have done all new grounds what am I missing. By the way love these trucks I also have a 97 Tahoe with 5.7. Love the vids
I would pick a 3/4 ton with the 6.0 vortec. I would take the LS based motor over the big 8.1 *496 ci* just for the newer technology and MPG, it only makes a little less power than the 8.1 . the only advantage I see with the 8.1 version is the full float rear end vs the c clip 9.5 in the 6.0 but both are way way stronger than the 8.5 10 bolt under the 1/2 ton.
I have a 2012 Suburban 3/4 ton 4x4. It was a Navy vehicle driven by a commanding officer. Only had 42000 miles on it when I bought it this year. 6.0 with the 6l90e transmission. It does not come with AFM stock only weak link is the 6l90 they have bad torque converters. I get 13 mpg average unloaded I haven't towed anything yet. I bought it to tow with. Looks like a government vehicle in fleet white. It's already in the shop for a air conditioning leak. If your buying it for overlanding go with a low mile 2000 to 2006 3/4 ton when the build quality was better across the board that goes for HD trucks as well. Toyota if your listening please make an HD truck we can tow heavy with 😆
I was wondering what happens to payload when suboverland lifts them. Same components used?
What lift keys do you guys use on your '90s 3/4 tons?
I think the 8.1L got the 4L85E (at least the 2003+ models do) which has a few beefier parts than the regular 4L80e for added torque.
I have 2005 6.0 w 160,000 on it. I get fantastic gas mileage, at least as good as my other subs with 350s in them, it’s fast and it pulls
I’ve been trying to find this out for a minute. I have the 1500 with a 5.3. And thinking about getting a 2500 with the 6.0. Thanks
@@josemendez-wj8es Try to find one made in USA not Mex
The rear differential with 4:10 gears only came with a 14 bolt full floating diff. The 3:73 could be a semi floater.
You should check your glove box sticker for what gear ratio you get on the burbs. I think z71 get 3:73 but the lesser models can come with higher gearing. I think mine is 3:43.
Same here
Cargo doors are a great option in my book. Big block only if towing heavy trailer.
Definitely
It's so interesting to hear all about Suburbans. A 1/2 ton or maybe even just a 1/3 ton would be enough for me. hehe Thank you.
What's the ride quality difference?
Have you had success replacing rocket panels on suburbans? I have one and the rocker panels suddenly just crumbled. Also have a number of oil leaks. What do you do to address that issue? On older suburbans?
2000 1/2 ton Burb, 2002 1/2 ton Silverado, 2006 1 ton Express. Burb is like driving a luxury car - can go 12 hours with no fatigue, but hate the 4L60e. Any Vortec is good but my 4L80 van with 9 passengers can tackle Colorado highways woth ease - it's just a rock solid drivetrain.
3/4 ton drivetrain is so much better. Wish I could've found one over my 1/2
@golfshowjohn what's the price
There is a guy in Colorado that has a 3/4 ton duramax diesel in his surburban. I wish they offered this from the factory.
That would be cool
What is your take on the 2002 2500 8.1 that has on the vin sheet " Built for armor " ?
How long is ur waiting list?
Question...how much for a 3/4 sub. Any year/engine trans (4wd preferred) configuration. Preferred. Looking for a price range. Low to high. In October/November I will be in the market for one. Even if I paid "SubOverland" to obtain it.
I just picked up a 2000 suburban 2500 6.0. I love the gmt800, had nearly every other config except this one. In my experience, the 8.1 is fun and sounds awesome but without service history, i wouldnt touch one. Lots of them burn oil as fast as gas. And the torque is addictive and works great towing, but the 6.0 makes more power with just a tune and has endless modifications. The 8.1 is such an oddball engine, but like i said if you find someone who maintained one and you're not modding it, go for it.
As far as the 2500 vs 1500...the suspension, axles, brakes and engines are nice and all...but for me its all in the 4l80. The 4l60 always feels nervous and can go at any time. Ive had 300k original ones and had one let go at 66k. You dont have those issues with the 4l80. I think the rear leafs ride surprisngly well on the 2500. The biggest issue is finding a nice 2500. Took me YEARS.
As of Jan 2024, there is a nice black 2002 Suburban 2500 8.1 at a dealer near me for fairly cheap at $13k. Alas, it is only 2wd. Had it been 4wd, I figure it would be gone quickly. If my wife allowed it, I would probably grab it. The MPG would probably eat me alive as I don't really tow anything.
We could source an 8.1 for you. If interested email us at support@suboverland.com
3/4 ton no transmission issues
I have a 2001 3/4 suby 4wd, 130k mikes;
I bought it for towing and all the ressons you mentioned plus a few you didnt:
Bigger brakes, factory trans temp guage, factory engine oil cooler, bigger radiator(??), bigger alternator, 38 gallon tank (i think its actually 2 tanks)
Nice. The Factory trans temp gauge is nice for sure. Radiator and alternator are the same as 1/2 ton versions. The gas tank is a dual tank system with a small auxiliary tank with its own separate pump.
Bought a 01 5.3 4wd 1500 suburban with 170k and now has 280k and picking up a 02 2500 4wd suburban with 170k today. I don’t know if I can sell my first one
Good info brother...I've got a 2006 Yukon XL. What tires are on that 1500?? Thanks
I've got a 2000 and a 2002 running LT285/75/16 on both gives more ground clearance and I think thy drive better
What's your take on using 1/2 ton torsion bars on a 3/4 ton burb assuming you don't have a ton of weight up front. Additionally adding a Superssprings Sumospring for better responsiveness and or weight if you need it. Thinking this would provide the best of both worlds....softer ride over washboard roads etc.
I haven't heard of doing that. Sorry
@@suboverland You'd be just the guy to test it out ; )
I have the 1/2 ton '05 Yukon XL, Denali, AWD. It seems to be a poor off road choice. (I also have an '04 and '98 3/4 ton 4x4 with REAL 4 wheel drive!) Is there a good way to improve traction with the AWD setup? I have good 285/75 17's on it, but still disappointed. I call it my city-slicker truck.
Can't remember exactly what I read before. But something like the Denali isn't set up like the regular Yukons for 4x4 running like the gearing is different and stuff like that. It's made more for the paved road.
Secret from a man that has put 230k on one 8.1 liter and 60k on a second.
The 239k rig still gets 14.9 mpg (yes, you read that right), change the fuel pump every 80k miles. The lack of fuel pressure kills them for power and mileage. Cut the factory muffler off, it has horrid flow. The truck went from 12mpg interstate to 15 mpg instantly. The 8.1 is by far the best motor GM ever put in a truck. I’ve owned duramaxs,5.3’s, all of them. The 8.1 is the most reliable and stand by you like a loyal dog there is!
Great info! So did you just leave the cats on without a muffler? Strait piped?
What fuel pump brand do you recommend?
I worked for a company that had ford f-250 regular cab 2wd and 4:10. They had 351 Windsor. I had a f-250 extended cab 4wd long bed with a 460. Both trucks got the same fuel mileage. I think the big engine works less than the small engine. Fuel mileage should be close.
Great video. What years would you stay away from with the suburban and engines. I hear the engines that use only 4cyl. On the highway are problematic. I am looking for a reliable suburban.
Only the 1500 Suburbans have displacement on demand. Get an old 1500 or the 2500 if you want to avoid the 4 cyl situation.
In my understanding, the better years for a 1500 are: 1998-99, 2005-06, 2014.
For a 2500, all years are good.
I just inherited a 2003 3/4 Yukon xl w/ 6.0/4l80 and 3.73 gears. It has 304,000 miles and runs pretty good. I’m trying to troubleshoot a “reduced engine power” issue. Otherwise it runs great. What should I sell it for?
Hard to say how much you could get for it without knowing the issue. 3/4 ton are worth more but at 304k that's tough to say
I have 2005 suburban LT autoride and I don’t found a lift kit for autoride what kit you used for that application?
I think you would need to get shock extenders if you keep the auto ride.
I love these trucks but man it is so sad that GM did such weenie axles on the 1/2 ton Suburban. I have a 95 Ranger and it has a bigger rear axle ring gear than the 10 bolt. And the front axle (Dana 35) has the same size ring gear as the front axle on the 1/2 ton Suburban.
I got a 2009 3/4 ton because I wanted the best towing capacity I could get without having to deal with all the parking and road restrictions that come with having a truck plate in Chicago. With the 39 gallon tank and 18MPG highway I get over 600 miles per tank. 6.0L, 3.73, factory transmission cooler & skid plates. Was not cheap.
No way! Are you serious? 18mpg on highway??
@@musicman5299 Almost. The truck had passenger vehicle tires on it when I first bought it and I got 18 MPG. I replaced those with proper LT tires and now I get more like 17.5 MPG.
@@lordgothington That is exactly what I was thinking! Currently wheels have AT tires I was thinking about putting highway tires on that and getting a new set and put KO2's or something other but def AT tires! We're in the East coast going to be traveling a lot to the west and south with the family! I was thinking of keeping AT's in the back or figure out a mounting cage that attaches to the hitch and switch them when I get there! It'll def save the more expensive AT's and use them where needed and road tires are great for highways more comfortable ride less noise n better mpg's
I had the same situation then I put 285s on my 2008 Suburban and I never saw 18mpg again. I recently bought factory sized tires and my mileage has improved. The LY6/6L90 combo gets much better mpg than old models stated in this video.
How about the 6.2 and 6.5 Detroit diesels!!!??!?!?
What about the 2500 with the 6.0 and 410,s
Great vehicle
Is the ground clearance the same on both the 2500 and 1500? And, do you ever install locking rear differentials?
1500 trucks have 2" more ground clearance than 2500s. If you plan on really taking a 2500 off road you need to have a minimum of 35" tire. Most people prefer the 1500 because a 33" tire in a 1500 gets you same ground clearance as a 37" tire on a 2500.
The 2500’s come standard with auto lockers not sure about the 1500’s
I have a 99 Chevy Suburban, and really want to add some sweet wheels and tires. Any good places to start?
We just paint the stock wheels.
Discount tire
Good God that 3/4 ton is sweet.
Thanks!
My exact thought! Maybe it's just the color, but even though they're the same vehicle it just looks tougher than the 1500.
The 8.1 does have a full float the 6.0 has semi float usually
I've seen both on the 8.1.
Dang that’s crazy I never knew the 8.1s came with semi float. That’s lame. I also know the frames are different and the frame mounts. Feel like the 2500 sits a little higher just because of the frame
If I brought you my truck how long would a build take? I think we need to get on the phone and talk. I have a 8.1 / Allison 2500 2004 Suburban
Hi! Feel free to hop on the website and send us a message. We can help out from there. www.suboverland.com
Unless I'm mistaken, one thing worth mentioning is two entirely different frames. Not just a beefier frame on the 2500, but a straight ladder frame. Isn't the 00-06 2500 frame actually the same frame as on the old 90's 2500's?
The 1500's actually used the same frame from 2000-2019(20), for the 3 generations of Suburbans. It wasn't until 2020(21) with the latest gen with independent rear that they changed the frame.
Also the ride on the 2500's is quite a bit stiffer due to the rear leaf springs...
I'd also venture to say the gas mileage on the 1500's is better than that... I've owned 3 suburbans, and both of my 1500's with the 5.3 got about 17-18 on the highway in 2wd. Being that you get 12 if you're lucky with a 2500, that alone is a huge difference if you commute daily with your Suburban.
Thanks!
That's fantastic mileage on the 1500. I have a '13 Toyota 4Runner, I c just put the same General Grabber ATX tires that are on the Suburbans on it, in the stock load range in size, and I lost a solid 2MPG so I'm down to about 18 MPG average. Obviously a Suburban is way bigger and more powerful, so that's really good mileage considering. I'm actually thinking of selling the 4Runner and picking up a Tahoe or Suburban, just not sure. I could probably sell the 4Runner, pick up a nice GMT800 Tahoe or Suburban, and still have 10K left over haha.
@@trailrunnah8886 Yeah the 5.3's are hard to beat! Not ALL the power in the world, but enough to get around, and not bad on gas, crazy cheap to maintain etc, and they should go at least 300k without major issues if taken care of.
Just keep in mind, you said you average 18mpg with the 4Runner - you won't average 18 with a Suburban. You can get 18 on the highway, but your average will probably be more like 13 if you include city driving.
@@ohaggdah gotcha, thanks for the info! Honestly I can deal with the decrease in mileage for the better engine. A lot of the Toyota guys really love the 4.0, they say it's reliable, but I actually really hate it. I don't like the power delivery, (feels like it doesn't have much low-end torque, it's all top end power) and it sounds terrible. It always sounds like it's struggling, and when you really dig into the throttle it literally sounds like it's in pain LOL.
Yota guys are like yeah it's designed to comfortably run at 4000 RPM all day. Okay, but I don't want to be screaming around at 4000 RPM all the time.
I have a 5.7 LS in my f body, and granted it's apples to oranges, but that car is fast as I need it without ever really getting over 2000 RPM.
The 8.1 technically outperforms the Duramax on almost everything but fuel economy lol
1500 for me. Maybe 4x4, but there goes another digit or two mpg
Yep
It's not that big of a difference and if you have a 2007 and later they put AFM on those 1/2 tons and I have heard major issues with those engines.
You forgot you can get a 6.5 diesel
I have a 2004 XL yukon 3/4 ton 8.1 that needs suboverland
We'd love to work on it👍
@@suboverland what's the cost?
What’s your thoughts on barn door vs hatch?
They both have their benefits
Barn doors are cool - but the hatch has a hidden advantage - when it is open you can eat a sandwich and stay dry while its raining at lunch time
I believe the 8.1 burbans are a 4l85e?
Yes, except in 2001 and early 2002 had 4L80E.
Anyone have any real-world experience with the 6.0 in regards to MPG? I'm drawn to the 3/4 ton for the stronger drivetrain, but I definitely don't need an 8.1 and 10 MPG to carry around a mountain bike and a dog LOL.
The 6.0 will get around 10 towing and around 12 empty.
My 6.0 6l90 will get 13 mpg average unloaded which is better than the older 4l80e. The 4l80 is built better with less issues, you will get more trouble free miles out of it. Not much difference between the two though with the 6.0 especially if you are rebuilding a transmission.
I owned a 2007 3/4 Chevy pickup with 6.0Vortec and got 11-12 / 15-16 hwy.
A 3/4 ton with a 6.5 Detroit.??
Barn door!!!
Thinking about swapping a Duramax into my 1500 Z71 and swap the axles. Just need someone willing to do the work. Or should I find a 2500 shell for the swap?
I usually see that swap with a 3/4 ton as a base vehicle.
1500 coil spring rear suspension.
2500 is leaf spring rears
2500 has bigger front diff along with the bigger rear .
Totally different Frame ..
Basically every part is heavier duty
The trans is actually 4L85 not 80 at least my 2500 avalanche has the 85, allows for more torque then the allison
Hey I see a 3rd row seat in the background can I buy that from you. I need one bad. I contacted you guys the other week for one. I live in boise.
Yes we always have third row seats available. $50. Get a hold of Gus at suboverland.
3/4 also had a rougher ride.
They do have a rougher ride because of the beefed up suspension but those rigs just feel SOLID!
@@GoGT-R That beefy suspension and the constant low mileage made me pass up buying it. I'm still looking.
@@secondact7151 I own an 04 1500 LT with 302,000 miles on it so there's something to consider when it comes to the 5.3.
how about reliability? about the same?
Yes
The 2000 to 2006 GMC Yukon XL 2500 was better built than the counterpart Suburban.
The 2000 to 2005 Ford Excursion does better in fueleconomy than the Yukon XL 2500/Suburban 2500.
Kenny I've owned multiple 2500 Yukon and 2500 Suburban 8.1. Can honestly say never noticed any differences in any measurable comparisons regarding quality between the two. Over 40 years with the Suburbans and close to 30 on the Yukons, 3 of which have been same generation. Over the years I've heard this statement from quite a few people but when asked what they base their opinions on they can't explain it or try and tell me its based on the higher cost of the Yukon.
@@JohnJohn-wr1jo I understand but back in the day there was a dealership that had it explained to me what the difference was between choosing a suburban 2500 versus a Yukon xl 2500 and it was a bit more expensive to purchase the GMC because GM had it differently built.
I wish I could go back to yahoo to get a hold of that information.